Hubbit Recommendations

A helpful list of recommendations from Community Hub members over the years. Feel free to add any suggestions you have below, with links. Any discussion about tools/materials to go in The Studio Forum, not on this thread please. Thanks!

Design and Pattern Prep:

Pens for Lead Came –  In one article I read, the SG artist used a Staedtler Lumocolor Permanent F318 marker on her patterns which she found was just the right width for the lead came lines. Byron

‘Fade out’ paper – architects gridded paper – manon??pix in file

Cutting:

Cuttershttps://www.fletcherviscom.combyron

Cutters I like- Fletcher brand 124 degree carbide wheel – stay away from steel wheels-Robert P

Cutting Oil – Cheap Walmart Lamp Oil. I have been using the el cheapo Lamp Oil from Walmart (was recommended by Physics Engineer/Stained Glass Shop Co-owner). Was told that if you leave a score line with the regular cutting oil, the score will start to heal. Tried that. Sure did. The lamp oil is in a small mason jar, I dip the cutter each time I cut. The bottom of the jar has lots of glass “grit” that falls from the cutting wheel. Keeps the wheel clean and sharp. Oh so inexpensive!!!!!!!!!!!!

Waffle Grid – Check out Waffle Grid. It is not as expensive or brittle as the Morton cutting board. I have Morton on the lightbox and Waffle Grid for everyday use. Prefer Waffle.

Lead Angle Cutters:

Cheap Wal Mart angle cutters – ed p http://www.walmart.com/ip/SHEFFIELD-Multi-Cutter/47702074

us: eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=angle+lead+shears&_sacat=0

US No DAys: http://www.streuter.com

Saws for Zinc

Here is what I have been using to to cut the miters on my zinc came. .?This is a miter box and saw from a model company called Revell. They are sold in Michael’s and Hobby Lobby stores in the US.?I also posted another photo of a brand called Midwest.?I believe this was designed to cut “balsa wood” but I found it could also work with the came. It is a little hard to hold the box still while you cut but you could find a way to clamp it down. Also, the saw is small with not a lot to grip so you can’t press too hard when sawing or it binds up.?You could use other small saws but they need to to have very fine teeth to cut a nice smooth and narrow cut.?

After considering this thread on miter boxes and mitered cuts. I looked around on the internet and found a much better quality saw?( Silky Straight Metal Cutting Hand Saw MINI-MINI2 150 Extra Fine Teeth (Metal) #166-15 by Silky ) than the Revell and X-acto. This one should provide more handle to hang onto and more leverage when sawing.

Your Revell (liked making their models as a kid!) miter box looks identical to my X-acto miter box. I used a trusty Irwin Quick-Grip clamp to hold the box to my bench after chasing the thing around on the first miter. The clamp limits your maneuver room but just another skill we SG workers develop…contortionist extraordinary!?In the earlier posts about the Gryphon and other miter saws I mentioned my Amazon purchase…more than Harbor’s but less than a Gryphon. It does a nice job on the lead came. Whichever model you buy I think you will enjoy it. I’ve been very happy with it with zinc and what I’ve done so far with lead.

This tool junkie really likes the bench saw from Harbor Freight and Tools. It was actually recommended to me by Anything In Stained Glass. I have the 2? bench/miter saw and friend has the HF&T 4? one that she also loves. The price of the HF&T one is far better than the Gryphon and just as good.

Saws for Lead

I have this for Miter saw for zinc came. And this easy lead cutter for lead. The easy Lead Cutter (Amazon) is wonderful.

Grinding:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-STAINED-GLASS-GRINDER-BIT-HEAD-4-INLAND-OR-GLASTAR-TOP-QUALITY-BRASS-5-SIZES-/301902858090?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 Mitzi

Ripple bits

Aanraku TWOFERS 2 bit set – Ripple bits. I get them on Amazon but they are also on Delphi Glass. I don’t have any trouble getting them on or off my grinder which is a Glastar SuperStar II.

Lead and Zinc Came:

Lead Came?Ok! Update! From SG preservationists! Their preference for Lead Came in USA is Cascade unstretched. They also have another but will get back to me (we did 3 way). Kat also used Cascade when she did the Vegas casino’s windows.

Canadian: http://www.cascademetals.com

Cutting Tool for Lead Came – a special ULU knife. Purchased from Amazon Store…The Ulu factory, Inupiat Birch Alaska cutlery Ulu $17.92
Sharpener $11.01, Cuts really well!

Lead came purchasing: http://www.whittemoredurgin.com/lead-came mitzi and ed p

Came bender?and a bender you can enjoy and still drive–? http://www.delphiglass.com/lead-came-supplies/came-saws-tools/came-bending-jig

Foiling:

Table Foiler – table top one?Latest model is # 6006WR. WR stands for welded roller which is one of the latest design modifications that solved a little problem when foiling. Some places may be selling the older models which is fine as long as you know what you’re getting. Best price I’ve found is at http://www.scstainedglass.com/ – byron

Soldering:

Gail Koebke recommends this Fume Extractor.

From time to time someone posts questions or comments about taking solder fumes away from your work. I bought this little fan a couple years ago, and am very satisfied with it. It doesn’t take up much room on your bench, it does a really good job, and it runs remarkably quiet (you hardly hear it – really). Granted, it’s not cheap, but you often get what you pay for. Hope you find this useful.

http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Fume-Extractions-Accessories/Fume-Extractors/FXF11-15970

It has a charcoal impregnated filter. When the filter gets full of junk from the air it tends to drop out of the fan. This is actually a good indicator that it’s time for a new filter, but it will take a long time to happen. Order extra filters to have on hand, or you might be able to wash the filter (not sure).

Solder seller from @Mitzi~ http://www.ebay.com/sch/wood-n-glass/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654

Weller 100 Grooved Tip – a special grooved tip that helps create a beaded seam. Sounds a good plan! http://www.glasscrafters.biz/PROD/CT6G7

 

Hirsch Metals located in Florida. I originally wanted to try their Wizard AG lead free solder, but they do not sell that in small quantities so I settled for their Wizard lead free solder. I just finished a piece which I will post soon that I used with this solder. I love it. I use a gel flux, but they told me any flux would be compatible. Can’t rave about it enough. Their number is 800-521-0352.

http://hirschmetals.com

 

Lead free soldering and flux to go with:  Silvergleem, Canfield DGS Solder

It doesn’t flow as quickly as leaded solder. I tried one from Johnsons metals recommended by an artist from Alaska from a web posting and that is even more difficult to use so for now I am staying with DGS, There is another company Hirsch metals from Florida and they offer two lead free solders. Wizard AG is not available in small quantities so I am going to try the other call Wizard. One pound is only $14.00 so it is worth a try.

60/40 I use Victory White Metal which I buy through a company in TN. For those that want 60/40 VWM (Victory White Metal) Wood-n-glass on eBay has the best price and free shipping. mitzi

Flux:

Gel flux – Classic100 – Marg

Stewart Hall Flux-o-matic – the flux a shop in NJ suggested to use with Canfield DGS Solder solder is Stewart Hall Flux-o-matic. It’s a gel and doesn’t sputter.

Soldering mats: Silicone Baking Mat?http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ODR2YU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ZQ5KT1DVYDG5&coliid=I2GFT6DJJXY6NS

Soldering- sand for sticking 3-D projects in:?Looks like sand but when compressed holds together like playdough. I think it is called magic sand. Okay, looked it up. It is called Kinetic Sand and Michaels carries it. Just a thought for those without easy access to sand. maggie

Soldering board:

Gyproc – dry wall plaster board for soldering – Dry wall is the generic term in the UK. Gyproc WallBoard is available too.

homasote board

Homasote board can be found at local hardware stores in the US.?ACE hardware has had it everytime I have looked for it, and they sell it in the big drywall size sheets… they will also cut it to size for you.?have also seen it at Home Depot

Cleaning, Patina and Polish:

Kwik-Clean flux remover: 

White mold problem on solder
We have all heard questions about the “White Mold” that forms on solder. We have all tried the many potions and mixes to neutralize the flux/solder reaction. I have had great success with Baking Soda but that is not always an option if you have a large panel that won’t fit in the tub to scrub, wash and rinse.

Solves problem of cleaning big panels
Well!! I had heard of the Kwik Clean, purchased it, but was not using it to the fullest of it’s claim. I have an extremely large panel that I am repairing for someone and it it too big for my bathtub (and I have a big one). Read the label of Kwik Clean and it’s claim. Then checked the internet site to read about this wonder cleaner. Now we all know that these companies hype their products.

No running water needed
“Kwik-Clean flux remover doesn’t need mixing or diluting. Just spray on Kwik-Clean when you’re done soldering, then use paper towel to clean project thoroughly.
Ideal for cleaning items that are too big to fit in a sink, like larger panels and lamps. 16 oz spray bottle. Refill available, see item #63700.

Using with patina
To use with patina: Use a paper towel to apply the patina. Mixing the Kwik-Clean with Patina gives added cleaning of the flux and a finer tone on the patina. After Patina is applied, clean again with Kwik-Clean. Polish as you normally would”

Proof that it works
I, being me, still was not convinced. Remembered when at @Michelle Moore’s Shadow Solder Class she had us using this product and had mentioned that she used it exclusively. Called her with questions re the white mold etc. Michelle informed me that she never, never lets water touch her work anymore, since using Kwik Clean. She has not ever had mold issues or any other issues.

Keeps your solder silver as well if you are not using patina. I purchase the gallon jugs. Keep 4-6 at a time and use funnel to pour into spray bottle. AISG keeps the gallons in stock. Have used CJs but find Kwik Clean better.

Patina– If you want to patina lead-free solder, you will need a patina for silver. Midas Black Max is one brand. The patina you use for 60/40 or 50/50 solder does not work, because it is formulated to work on tin and lead. Your supplier should be able to order it, or you can look at jewelry making companies like Rio Grande.

Wax:

I use Turtle Wax, but only the ‘original’ version so no added chemicals for washing etc.

Mothers with Carnauba Cleaner Wax – Mitzi (US) This is what I use and swear by! I give 2 to 3 coats of wax at end of project. I also tell everyone who buys, receives as gift etc. to never clean with window cleaner. Tell them they can Pledge or paste wax with Mother’s. mitzi

Dremel brush for polishing-?I have a brush I attach to my drill that works fabulously. Purchased from Mongo’s Art Glass for great price. Website is http://www.artglassville.com and I think the name of the brush is PAZ. It has been a tool I wish I had had from the onset. Saves time and the final result is fantastic. I usually give each project 3 coats. After brushed to a high shine use a lint free cloth to wipe off any fine residue. The brush also saves wear and tear on my arms. Mitzi

Framing and Hanging:

Wood for frames-

http://northernhardwoodframes.com/shop/corner-bracket-custom-framing-system/

I purchased unfinished framing stock from https://www.northernhardwoodframes.com/. This way we would already have the inside groove and not have to fiddle with the router while we were getting acquainted with the process. Now that we have spent some time getting into the process and have the hang of it we have purchased a 3/16th router bit. Need another router bit for that inside lip beveled edge.

Glass Tidbits:

Flesh colour:

http://www.delphiglass.com/stained-glass/armstrong-glass/armstrong-flesh-opalescent?My favorite Caucasian skin color is Spectrum 291-61SF. The color does not look great online, but in person it is my favorite. Very smooth texture as well. Vicki G

Glass Head Ends from Kokomo Glasshttp://www.kog.com/more-glass/glass-head-ends.html

Tulip Glass:?Just thought you might like to know the stock number for the tulip glass:?Youghiogheny 1109.sp – Marg   www.youghioghenyglass.com/

Glass Beadshttp://www.harmonyglass.com/roundFaceted.shtml – Milly

Spectrum Glass samples–   try contacting April at Loon’s Call Stained Glass in Brantford, Ontario. I ordered Youghi glass sample packs from her , and her prices were far less than Delphi. (Marg)

 

Tools and Materials:

Lead Angle Cutters us: Amazon: Craftsman edge Utility Cutters

US No DAys: http://www.streuter.com

Tip tinner?I clean my iron on a damp sponge – a natural one, not synthetic – as I work. If it gets really dirty and black I use a tip tinner like this from Amazon.com 😕 http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-SAC305-Copper-container/dp/B003BDOEUU/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1451920489&sr=1-4&keywords=tip+tinner

Reinforcing: braided wire flex-bar and they have it at Tempsford. (UK)

Glue:

E6000 glue. I have used E6000 and like it for it’s durability and it does not yellow. – mitzi

Have you tried Mac Glue? It is fabulous. Was specifically made for the glass industry. Does not yellow and stands up to time! Mitzi

http://www.macglue.com Mitzi? https://mosaictraderuk.co.uk/25ml-strass-glue-mac-glue.html

I used gorilla glue for the eyes, glasses and mouth. It does have a tendency to bubble out of the edges of your glued piece as it dries but the excess cuts away quite easily with a hobby knife. Mitzi

Glue for freeform shadow solderLocktite Glass Glue

I got the glue at a craft store in my town here in Ontario Canada but I think Michael’s sells it as well. It’s only 1 oz tube but it states on the label that it is weather and waterproof. I used to use it on my stone and metal work and it held very well indeed.If you are in the United States here is the site for the store: http://www.beaconadhesives.com?sally L

Clamps:

Metal Spring Clamps or Long Spring Metal Clamps – They’re called either Metal Spring Clamps or Long Spring Metal Clamps and you can get them on eBay in the UK and USA

BTW the clamp is from Roughneck, Olympia Tools – founded in the US so hopefully you can get one. Think they call them ‘Heavy Duty Hand Clamps

Keeping it Safe:

Wearing gloves

The bright orange ones. They were gardening gloves, bought in a local DIY store. Have a look for latex rubber coated work gloves or robust gardening gloves. They’re cheap and offer protection from solder drips. Don’t get them too big though, it will make you clumsy.

Protection?Working Hands is the name in a green tub. Can buy at Walmart, Pharmacies, Tractor Supply. for split hands.   Mitzi

Fingers latex?, they are stretchy latex and will form fit your fingers. I don’t trim mine, just use them straight from the bag. They are much more sturdy than a regular finger cot, with enough cushion. I can hardly tell I have them on! I do use them mainly for leading now because I’ve learned not to cut myself while cutting (MOST of the time!!!)! My fingers also split in the winter, these are great overall protection when the splitting happens! Please do share! I accidentally found them online and they are available only through the the finger glove company. Website is on package.

Glass Websites and Suppliers:

US:

Online:  Whittemore-Durgin Glass, and americanstainedglass http://www.anythinginstainedglass.com (I have wholesale acct. the owners Paula and David are great people to ask advice re products) Mitzi

http://www.artglassville.com/ Mitzi

Delphi, Lincoln Glass, Kokomo (Ann H)

www.Delphiglass.com

www.lincolnglass.com

www.kokomo.com Kokomo Opalescent Glass

www.spectrumglass.com Spectrum glass, going out of business this summer! Mitzi

http://www.stainedglassexpress.com (I signed up for their emails – check their sales and shipping – very good people – have purchased glass – and incidentals that ASG does not carry) Mitzi

http://www.sunshineglass.com for incidentals – great service

www.youghioghenyglass.com/

Camillus Stained Glass, Camillus, NY (Elizabeth A)

Merry Go Round Stained Glass Center, Indianapolis, IN (Ida-Iliana)

Here’s  another SG supply store that you might be interested in.  I believe they have prices that are as low, or lower, than any other store.  The name of the company is Timeless Tiffany, and they are located in Elkton MD.

I find it slightly confusing that they have three websites.  This link is primarily what I’d call their “about us” website.  It tells you where they are, and what they do (they also do commission work).  It’s an interesting read.   However, this isn’t where you see the products they sell.
http://www.timelesstiffany.com/index.html

The link below is their website that shows everything they offer.  The prices shown are the same as if you walked into the store to buy supplies.
http://onlinestore.timelesstiffany.com/Home.jsp

This final link is the link to the items that are on sale.  It might also show their entire inventory.
http://www.stainedglasssuppliesonsale.com/

If by chance you go to the store in person you can print out the sale prices and they will honor them, otherwise you’ll pay the regular price (still a good deal I think).  You can also place an order on-line and go to the store to pick it up.  Or, you can place your on-line order and they will ship it.

I called them last week to get clarification on the different website prices, and the lady I spoke with was very friendly and helpful.  She also mentioned to me that when I come to the store they would show me the area in the store where they are doing commissioned work (if I wanted to see it).  Apparently they are very willing to give you the grand tour. Gail K

UK:

The Creative Glass Guild (Bristol) – general glass supplies, fusing, slumping, stained glass, kilns etc – service second to none!? http://www.creativeglassguild.co.uk/

Tatra Glass (Leicestershire) – excellent stock of Tatra glass…very efficient!? http://www.tatra-glass.co.uk/contact

Kilncare (Stafford) – brilliant kilns!? http://www.kilncare.co.uk/

Other Glass Suppliers and Stores:

Perth Art Glass, Australia (Gillian M)

Montréal The Glass Place, Canada (Manon)

Peli Glass (Netherlands) – glass painting supplies; stainers colours, vitreous enamels, specialist brushes?peliglass.eu/ – Eileen

Books:

40 Great Stained Projects” by Michael Johnston

ebooks:?http://fusedglassbooks.com gillym

You can find the Books on Whirls by Deborah Aubin for a reasonable price at this web site.?usa?http://americanstainedglasscompany.com/books/cke/cke3.htm?

Software:

Xara :Photo and Graphic Designer software [ xara.com ]

I use Glasseye 2000. With a little practice, you can draw pretty much anything. Try their free 30-day trial (http://www.dfly.com/download.html#.VPNecC61a6E) and make immediate use of their tutorial to get a sense of the possibilities (http://www.dfly.com/tutorial/index.html)?

Miscellaneous:

Whirls  – I’ve found a Whirl pattern book for you here. It isn’t cheap but I think instructions might be needed, rather than just a pattern. UPDATE: This book isn’t in stock at Franklyn glass anymore  but there is a similar one on Amazon:

Amazon Whirls

Glass Paintingpropylene glycol – instead of antifreeze http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/151427709396?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

Tree branches for birds solder to: Then Mitzi mentioned a company called Chippaway that actually manufactures tree branches which can be ordered in an upward or downward direction.

Storage

Rack holding the pink glass: I actually found that at “Big Lots” or the Dollar Store. It is really a metal mail/file holder for a desk. It does the same as the Morton glass holder and I paid only $2 – label still on it.

Design and Pattern Prep:

Pens for Lead Came – @Milly In one article I read, the SG artist used a Staedtler Lumocolor Permanent F318 marker on her patterns which she found was just the right width for the lead came lines. Byron
‘Fade out’ paper – architects gridded paper, good for designing on. Manon

Cutting:

Cutters

Cutters I like- Fletcher brand 124 degree carbide wheel – stay away from steel wheels- Robert P
Cutting Oil – Cheap Walmart Lamp Oil

Lead Angle Cutters:

Cheap Wal Mart angle cutters – ed p

http://www.walmart.com/ip/SHEFFIELD-Multi-Cutter/47702074

us: eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Angle-Lead-Shears-for-stained-glass-FREE-SHIPPING-in-USA-/360748080355?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53fe42dce3
US No DAys:

http://www.streuter.com/

@Donna W Here is what I have been using to to cut the miters on my zinc came. . This is a miter box and saw from a model company called Revell. They are sold in Michael’s and Hobby Lobby stores in the US. I also posted another photo of a brand called Midwest. I believe this was designed to cut “balsa wood” but I found it could also work with the came. It is a little hard to hold the box still while you cut but you could find a way to clamp it down. Also, the saw is small with not a lot to grip so you can’t press too hard when sawing or it binds up. You could use other small saws but they need to to have very fine teeth to cut a nice smooth and narrow cut.

@Ed-p After considering this thread on miter boxes and mitered cuts. I looked around on the internet and found a much better quality saw( Silky Straight Metal Cutting Hand Saw MINI-MINI2 150 Extra Fine Teeth (Metal) #166-15 by Silky ) than the Revell and X-acto. This one should provide more handle to hang onto and more leverage when sawing.Byron
Your Revell (liked making their models as a kid!) miter box looks identical to my X-acto miter box. I used a trusty Irwin Quick-Grip clamp to hold the box to my bench after chasing the thing around on the first miter. The clamp limits your maneuver room but just another skill we SG workers develop…contortionist extraordinary!?In the earlier posts about the Gryphon and other miter saws I mentioned my Amazon purchase…more than Harbor’s but less than a Gryphon. It does a nice job on the lead came. Whichever model you buy I think you will enjoy it. I’ve been very happy with it with zinc and what I’ve done so far with lead. ed p

This tool junkie really likes the bench saw from Harbor Freight and Tools. It was actually recommended to me by Anything In Stained Glass. I have the 2? bench/miter saw and friend has the HF&T 4? one that she also loves. The price of the HF&T one is far better than the Gryphon and just as good.

Saws for Lead

The easy Lead Cutter (Amazon) is wonderful.

Grinding:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-STAINED-GLASS-GRINDER-BIT-HEAD-4-INLAND-OR-GLASTAR-TOP-QUALITY-BRASS-5-SIZES-/301902858090?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Ripple bits

Aanraku TWOFERS 2 bit set – Ripple bits?I get them on Amazon but they are also on Delphi Glass. I don’t have any trouble getting them on or off my grinder which is a Glastar SuperStar II.

Lead and Zinc Came:

Lead Came?Ok! Update! From SG preservationists! Their preference for Lead Came in USA is Cascade unstretched. They also have another but will get back to me (we did 3 way). Kat also used Cascade when she did the Vegas casino’s windows.
Canadian: http://www.cascademetals.com

Lead came purchasing?http://www.whittemoredurgin.com/lead-came mitzi and ed p
Came bender?and a bender you can enjoy and still drive–?http://www.delphiglass.com/lead-came-supplies/came-saws-tools/came-bending-jig

Foiling:

Table Foiler – table top one?Latest model is # 6006WR. WR stands for welded roller which is one of the latest design modifications that solved a little problem when foiling. Some places may be selling the older models which is fine as long as you know what you’re getting. Best price I’ve found is at http://www.scstainedglass.com/byron

Soldering:

Mitzi recommends Victory White Metal solder–wood-n-glass ebay store for 60/40 VWM solder (free shipping always) I buy 20 at a time (have friends tell me how many they want and I make up the difference to get 20)
Solder seller from @Mitzi~ http://www.ebay.com/sch/wood-n-glass/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654

Flux:

Gel flux – Classic100 – Marg
Stewart Hall Flux-o-matic
Soldering mats: Silicone Baking Mat?http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ODR2YU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ZQ5KT1DVYDG5&coliid=I2GFT6DJJXY6NS
Soldering- sand for sticking 3-D projects in:?Looks like sand but when compressed holds together like playdough. I think it is called magic sand. Okay, looked it up. It is called Kinetic Sand and Michaels carries it. Just a thought for those without easy access to sand. maggie

Patina

If you want to patina lead-free solder, you will need a patina for silver. Midas Black Max is one brand. The patina you use for 60/40 or 50/50 solder does not work, because it is formulated to work on tin and lead. Your supplier should be able to order it, or you can look at jewelry making companies like Rio Grande.

Wax:?I use Turtle Wax, but only the ‘original’ version so no added chemicals for washing etc. – gillian wing (UK)
Mothers with Carnauba Cleaner Wax – Mitzi (US)?This is what I use and swear by! I give 2 to 3 coats of wax at end of project. I also tell everyone who buys, receives as gift etc. to never clean with window cleaner. Tell them they can Pledge or paste wax with Mother’s. mitzi
Dremel brush for polishing-?I have a brush I attach to my drill that works fabulously. Purchased from Mongo’s Art Glass for great price. Website is http://www.artglassville.com and I think the name of the brush is PAZ. It has been a tool I wish I had had from the onset. Saves time and the final result is fantastic. I usually give each project 3 coats. After brushed to a high shine use a lint free cloth to wipe off any fine residue. The brush also saves wear and tear on my arms.

Glass Tidbits:

Flesh:?http://www.delphiglass.com/stained-glass/armstrong-glass/armstrong-flesh-opalescent?My favorite Caucasian skin color is Spectrum 291-61SF. The color does not look great online, but in person it is my favorite. Very smooth texture as well. Vicki G

Tulip Glass:?Just thought you might like to know the stock number for the tulip glass:?Youghiogheny 1109.sp – Marg www.youghioghenyglass.com/
Glass Beads?http://www.harmonyglass.com/roundFaceted.shtml – Milly
Spectrum Glass samples- try contacting April at Loon’s Call Stained Glass in Brantford, Ontario. I ordered Youghi glass sample packs from her , and her prices were far less than Delphi. (Marg)
Bevels??http://www.franklinartglass.com/

Tip tinner

I clean my iron on a damp sponge – a natural one, not synthetic – as I work. If it gets really dirty and black I use a tip tinner like this from Amazon.com :?http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-SAC305-Copper-container/dp/B003BDOEUU/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1451920489&sr=1-4&keywords=tip+tinner

Glue for freeform shadow solder

Locktite Glass Glue
I got the glue at a craft store in my town here in Ontario Canada but I think Micheal’s sells it as well. It’s only 1 oz tube but it states on the label that it is weather and waterproof. I used to use it on my stone and metal work and it held very well indeed.?If you are in the United States here is the site for the store locator for the glue: http://www.beaconadhesives.com

 

Storage

Rack holding the pink glass: I actually found that at “Big Lots” or the Dollar Store. It is really a metal mail/file holder for a desk. It does the same as the Morton glass holder and I paid only $2 – label still on it.

Milly FrancesUncategorizedHubbit Recommendations A helpful list of recommendations from Community Hub members over the years. Feel free to add any suggestions you have below, with links. Any discussion about tools/materials to go in The Studio Forum, not on this thread please. Thanks! Design and Pattern Prep: Pens for Lead Came -  In one article...Create beautiful things. I'll show you how.