Making Stained Glass Templates That Fit
Accurate stained glass templates are crucial for creating beautiful panels. Once you’ve designed or found a stained glass pattern that you’re happy with, the next thing you need to do is make copies of it and cut the individual shapes out accurately. These will be used as templates for cutting all your glass pieces. You can cut stained glass templates most accurately with Foil Shears* or Lead Shears*, depending on which construction technique you’re using.
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How to Cut Stained Glass Templates
The following steps are all easy but it’s worth taking a bit of time doing them accurately. Think of it as a puzzle. If any of the pieces don’t fit, making the final picture will be difficult.
What you need:
Your stained glass pattern. Strong tracing paper. Carbon paper. Thin card. A pencil. Scissors.
For copper foil construction: Fine felt tip pen. Pattern shears for copper foil.*
For lead came construction: A 1/16 (2mm) black felt tip pen. Lead pattern shears.*
1. Making Copies
This is all about the order:
- Put the card at the bottom. Then the carbon paper (face down), followed by your pattern. The tracing paper goes on top of the pile.
- Pin or stick the edges down. It’s very important that nothing moves at this stage.
2. Tracing And Numbering The Shapes
- With the pencil, draw over the pattern with a constant, firm pressure. You want to make sure that the pattern reads clearly on the thin card at the bottom.
- It’s very important to number the shapes now, when all the pieces are together. I number mine at the top of each shape. This makes it easier when I’m trying to find how they fit together after they’re all cut.
At this stage you should have your pattern drawn on the tracing paper and the thin card.
- Put aside the carbon paper and your stained glass pattern.
- For foil:
On the tracing paper, go over all the lines – except the outside lines – with the fine pen. This will be used for assembling your panel when you’re ready.
- For lead came:
Do the same as above, only this time with the 1/16″ (2mm) thicker pen. This line represents the gap which the heart of the lead will fill later on.
3. How To Cut The Stained Glass Templates Pieces
- Now move on to the thin card. You are going to cut the stained glass templates from this. Cut neatly around the edge of the whole design with regular scissors.
- The next step is to cut a thin strip of card out between each shape. Why? Because either the width of the copper foil and solder, or the heart of the stained glass lead came will fill the gap when you assemble the panel. This means that you have to cut all the glass pieces a tiny bit smaller to make room for the foil and solder or heart of the lead.
- Luckily, the copper foil and lead shears are designed to cut the correct amount of card away from your pattern. Simply place them so that the line is in between the two outside blades.
Cut around each pattern piece. Do it slowly, especially around corners, as the strip can get caught up. Break it off every inch or so to stop this happening. You can rub candle wax on the blades to prevent the thin strips sticking.
- Once you’ve cut them all, check their accuracy by placing them on the tracing paper. You should be able to see the black felt pen line between each shape. The photo below may help.
- Make sure you have the correct shears for the technique you are using, either copper foil or lead. The lead shears cut a wider 1/16″ (2mm) slice than the copper foil ones.
By now you should have:
- one coloured design or pattern
- one sheet of tracing paper, with your pattern drawn in either a fine line (copper foil) or a thicker 1/16″ (2mm) line (lead came)
- each shape numbered on the tracing paper
- all your stained glass templates cut out of thin card and numbered
If this is the case then you’re ready to start Stained Glass Cutting.
Make a Double-Bladed Knife for Cutting Templates
Do you find copper foil pattern shears tricky to use? If you struggle with the paper getting stuck or hurting your hands then this idea will help you.
It’s an ingenious way to adapt a box cutter to create the perfect alternative for pattern shears.
This idea was shared by Georgia Hamilton who kindly gave permission for me to pass it on to you. Thanks Georgia 🙂
Taking The Knife Apart
1. Take your box cutter apart. Take notes about how it will fit back together. Yours may be slightly different .
2. The 2 areas of importance are circled in red. They will need adjusting for the added thickness of the additional blade.
3. Here’s a close up of one of the areas you’ll need to sand down to accommodate the 2 blades. The black plastic piece has a little ridge. Don’t sand down more of the ridge than you have to as it helps stabilise the blade(s). You want the double blade to fit on the slider at the same even depth as the single blade did.
4. The tab here rests on top of the blade when the handle piece is turned over. It fits into the same slot as the blades so it will also need to be sanded a bit to compensate for the added thickness of 2 blades.
*Important – sand the side of this tab that is contact with the blade – the inside of the black handle piece. Don’t sand any other ridges on this piece, just the tab and only as much as necessary. Keep checking the fit. This will help keep the blades fitting snugly.
Soldering 2 Blades Together
5. Use pliers to hold the blades together while placing a dab of flux and soldering. Just a smidge on both ends will hold the blades together.
If you’re using them for foil construction you don’t need to do any spacing of the blades. The blades are tapered at the edges (like a knife edge is) so the upper part of the blade provides the space needed to cut the correct width for foil construction.
You can see this natural gap in the blades below.
Putting It Back Together
6. Reassemble the cutter making sure the tab (circled in red) goes into the slot with the blades. The two handles should fit together smoothly. If not, you may need to sand a bit more.
The beauty of the box cutter blades is that when one side gets dull, you simply take the blade out and reverse it.
Georgia got the idea after watching a video of a master glass artist at work cutting out a pattern with a (vintage) double bladed tool that looked something like a modified lead knife. Excellent all round, thanks Georgia 🙂
There is more help with the copper foil technique here if you’re interested